Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Belly's Wednesday Wine & Food Pairings: Strictly Platonic Edition


This week, we again omit the “F” in BWW&FP, at least in the literal, material sense. Instead, this week’s wine is paired with sustenance for the soul. Behold.
We have here a 3-liter cask of Almaden Vineyards Heritage White Zinfandel (from California, $6.99 for the equivalent of four 750 milliliter bottles – that’s less than $2 per bottle, people; curiously, a slightly better value than the 5-liter casks) paired with Plato, specifically his Phaedrus. By way of an explanation for this pairing, allow me to articulate my motivations for selecting this particular vintage in the first place. (I swear it was not simply the price.)


As I was strolling through the liquor store – or rather, strolling up and down the aisle in which the boxed wine is stocked – my eye alighted on the luminous pink hue you see on the side of the cardboard cask, above the tap.
A closer look. Fortuitously - fatefully, perhaps - this face of the box, normally concealed, was exposed due to the removal of a neighbor.
Immediately, Guido Reni’s Archangel Michael hovered before my mind’s eye, as a result of the confluence between the color of the illustrated inebriant and the coral cloak of the avenging agent of heaven.
Guido Reni, The Archangel Michael, 1635; oil on silk; Rome, Santa Maria della Concezione.  Admittedly, the color of the cloak is not as radiant in this reproduction, but you get the idea.
Painted for an altar in the church of Santa Maria della Concezione in Rome and paid for by the Barberini, the family of the pope at the time, Urban VIII, Reni’s archangel is effortless finesse anthropomorphized. I would normally say, “personified,” but of course this isn’t a person, strictly speaking. The perfection and impassiveness of his visage surpasses that attainable in the human realm, recalling more closely the symmetrical serenity found in the carved faces of statuary from classical antiquity.  The color of his garments – lighter, ethereal tints of the traditional red and blue of the Virgin Mary – emphasize the celestial origin of this heavenly soldier, as opposed to the earthly nature of the mother of Christ (up until her death, at least). Most indicative of the empyrean nature of this being, however, is the weightlessness and grace bestowed upon it by Reni’s own superhuman powers of conception and execution. Though both of Michael’s feet are planted firmly, they appear to bear no weight, nor do the muscles of his legs exert any strain, even as the brawny devil struggles under the left one to escape being smitten by the impending blow of the archangel’s blade, prefigured by the powerful diagonal formed by the sword and left leg of Michael, the downward thrust of which dominates the painting’s composition. Such brutality appears antithetical to Michael’s balletic beauty – and indeed, Reni balances his work’s arrangement with the gentle curve formed by the figure’s head, torso, and right leg, a fittingly angelic arc that contrasts starkly with the blade’s uncompromisingly grim path – yet the devil’s insistently material bodily presence insists on being dealt with by violence reserved usually for the corporeal realm.

Luckily, there is preserved a written statement by Reni regarding this work, which reveals the artist’s intention to contrast heavenly beauty and base ugliness in the forms of Michael and the devil, respectively. To the chamberlain of Pope Urban VIII, Reni wrote that he wished he had:

an Angel’s brush or forms from Paradise when creating the Archangel, and to have seen him in heaven, but I could not reach such heights and sought him in vain on earth. So I depended instead on forms whose Idea I had established for myself. One may also find the Idea of ugliness, but that I leave to the devil to bring out because I myself flee it even in thought, nor do I care even to occupy my mind with it.

The use of the term, “Idea,” and reference to heavenly beauty not to be found on earth indicate clearly the Platonic bent of Reni’s artistic philosophy, in addition to the conundrum faced by visual artists who viewed their occupations in such a way.

First, to explain the capitalization of “Idea,” one must be familiar with Plato’s theory of Forms. As Plato has Socrates state in the Phaedrus, our accompaniment to this week’s vintage, a Form is “that which, going from a plurality of perceptions is drawn together by reasoning into a single essence” (Phaedrus 249b). The Form is a singular distillation – the thing in itself, to borrow Kantian terminology – of that which exists on earth, in the material realm, as a plurality. For example, for the many chairs that exist on earth, there is a singular Chair from which all are derived. To explain this idea in terms of Reni’s words above, he sought to contrast Beauty – its singular Form, or Idea, as he says – with Ugliness (again, he refers to the “Idea of ugliness”), but not being able to grasp these singular Forms, he contrasted that which he could find on earth; namely, visible examples beauty and ugliness, one each of their many pluralities.

Reni’s failure to grasp Beauty and Ugliness in their singularity cannot be blamed on any artistic shortcomings, but rather on his regrettable status as a mortal human. You see, Forms are part of the invisible realm of Being, as opposed to the physical, mortal realm of Becoming. Forms cannot be perceived by the senses, but only by reason and a soul unencumbered by a physical body. Socrates explains:

None of the poets [one could substitute artists of any kind here] on Earth have ever sung the praises of this place beyond heaven, nor will any ever sing of it adequately, but the hymn goes like this – for we must have the courage to speak the truth, especially when the true nature of things is our subject. This is the place of Being, the Being that truly is – colorless, shapeless, and untouchable, visible to the mind alone, the soul’s pilot, and the source of true knowledge (Phaedrus 247c).

Every soul originates in this celestial realm of Being and thus has gazed, so to speak, upon the Forms of things. However, Socrates claims that souls, which are naturally winged, sometimes lose their feathers. They then come to settle in an earthly body, animating it as a living, but mortal, creature (Phaedrus 246c). Now, every soul strives to return to the realm of Being, and the only way to do so is to arouse in it the memory of the Forms (or Ideas, to again recall Reni’s term) that it once viewed there. However, since Forms are not visible to our physical faculties, how is this to be done on earth? Socrates asserts that, to recollect those things that the soul once saw when traveling in the company of gods in the realm of Being, one must look with contempt at those things which we now say exist around him, and lift up his head to see what really is. “Only the discursive thinking of the philosopher, the one who is in love with wisdom, grows wings” (Phaedrus 249c). And so, when the philosopher, the lover of wisdom, looks upon earthly beauty, he is reminded of true Beauty (its Form, its Idea) and acquires wings (Phaedrus 249d).

Now we can see that Reni, in his letter to the pope’s chamberlain, was not so much admitting a failure to depict the Forms of Beauty and Ugliness - an impossibility and hence a shortcoming for which he cannot be blamed - but was ascribing to himself the highest motivations possible in this world – to those invested in Platonic philosophy, at least – the contemplation, or the striving for remembrance, of Forms. Reni’s description of his plight is remarkably close to that of the philosopher whose soul recalls true Beauty and has acquired wings; who shows no concern for the things of this earth and seeks, however futilely, to ascend from amongst this dreck to the divine realm of Being.

Despite Reni’s remarkable skill – he was called il Guido divino by his contemporaries – the painter’s attempted self-portrayal as a philosopher-artist who disdains the inferior forms found in the earthly realm rings hollow. No matter how elevated and immaterial Reni’s “Ideas,” his profession requires that he express them using undeniably material means – specifically: pigments ground up into a powder and suspended in some sort of vegetable oil (probably linseed); applied with brushes made of wood and animal hairs onto a textile support; usually canvas, but in this case, silk. And herein lies the aforementioned conundrum that faces visual artists with Platonic aspirations: Painters, sculptors, and other artists all produce physical objects that, while they may strive to be, or at least provoke, the Idea or Form of Beauty, are by their inescapably material nature nothing more than one of the multitude of Beauty’s earthly manifestations. What’s more, since most men do not love wisdom and are not philosophers, even a work of art that closely approaches Beauty will not incite in them the remembrance of the singular Form. For, as Socrates notes, “When looking at beauty’s namesake here [on earth], [the corrupted] person fails to experience true reverence as he gazes but yields to pleasure and tries to mount and spawn children according to the law of a four-footed animal” (Phaedrus 250e). Like me, Plato apparently had little faith in the philosophical faculties and inclinations of his fellow man; therefore, he excluded artists from his ideal city (Republic 10:595a-608b), lest skillful material representations distract citizens from the elevating contemplation of Forms and instead incite in them vulgar urges.

In my own desperate yearning to escape the baseness of my surroundings, I must admit to delusions and failures akin to Reni’s (if anything by Reni could be said to be a failure); in spirit, at least, if not in magnitude, quality, or importance. Anyway, I have already acknowledged that the image that graced the box recalled to me a vision I hold to be one of the most valiant attempts at Beauty I know; and so, like Reni with his art, I sought to use wine as a medium through which I could glimpse Forms and hopefully begin to return my soul to the realm of Being. And, I assure you, my notion was not misguided or self-serving! It has a distinguished philosophical pedigree! Socrates himself asserts that god-given madness is the greatest of all good things (Phaedrus 244a; Nietzsche also quotes this line in a clever attempt to undermine Socrates’ usual valorization of reason). And what is drunkenness if not the gift of madness particular to Dionysos, the god of wine?

However, as usual, things did not turn out as planned (which is not to say that the result could not have been anticipated). First, when tapping the cask initially, it became immediately clear that the box’s representation of what was within was far from accurate.
While the actual appearance of the wine is a rich, reddish amber – that is far from unpleasant, I must say – I still found myself disappointed that the illustration’s incandescent ambrosia was not flowing into my glass. It is a color rarely found in nature, save for on the flanks of low-hanging clouds during a sunset, and even then it lingers for only a few moments before the glowing orb that is its origin sinks beneath the horizon. Basically, I expected to capture in my glass, taste, and consume the fleeting essence of a beautiful dusk. “To experience the heavenly realm in such a way would surely spur my soul’s ascension,” I thought, as I basked in the wretched, soulless fluorescence that lighted the liquor store, simultaneously calculating the cost per liter of the different size casks and counting the crumpled singles in my wallet. (Thanks to Joe and Todd for making it rain on the dance floor of the wedding we recently attended. You guys sort of paid for this wine; and by “sort of,” I mean “literally.”)

Alas, in regard to the tasting itself, the transcendent experience I desired was not to be, either. Almaden’s Heritage White Zinfandel tastes strongly of strawberries, but a bit of dryness takes the edge off of the sweetness, preventing the drinker from gulping too hastily, as one tends to do with Almaden’s delectable Mountain Rhine. Again, while not offensive in any way, the sensation fell far short of what I had anticipated, which was essentially to taste rays of dazzlingly filtered sunlight alighting on my tongue as delicately and weightlessly as Reni’s archangel.

Finally, my hopes for the sensation I might have experienced by consuming early twilight condensed into a liquid are encapsulated by a passage from Thomas Mann’s novel, Doctor Faustus, in which the narrator describes the rationale behind a minor character’s morphine addiction:

(…) pain is something quite beneath man’s dignity, a disgrace not to be suffered. Moreover, quite apart from the concrete and specific debasement of physical pain or afflictions of the heart, life itself, in and of itself, mere existence, animal survival, is an unworthy and ponderous chain, a vile encumbrance, and anything but noble and proud; it is an exercise of our human rights and a legitimate spiritual act to thrust aside this burden, so to speak, to be rid of it, and to gain freedom, lightness, bodiless well-being, as it were, by supplying one’s physical nature with this blessed stuff, which grants the body emancipation from suffering (…).

The Platonic intimations of this passage are hopefully clear to you by this point, dear readers; but, as some of you may have realized, they are also sardonic. Mann’s narrator is describing the consumption of an addictive substance; an act that, while it provides temporary alleviation from the pains and cares of the body, is inexorably of it. Not coincidentally, such a characterization could be applied fittingly to our above discussion of Reni’s remarks and, more generally, the Platonically inclined visual artists’ conundrum. The Neapolitan painter Luca Giordano appears, at least in my limited view, to have commented wryly on the Platonic pretensions of some of his colleagues with his own version of the archangel Michael, which was clearly inspired by Reni's sublime work.
Luca Giordano, Saint Michael Vanquishing the Devil, c. 1663; oil on canvas; Berlin, Staatliche Museum.
Though at first glance exceedingly beautiful and seemingly heavenly, closer examination reveals details that exclude Luca’s archangel from the celestial realm occupied by Reni’s. First, Luca’s figure possesses an insistent luminousness that borders on garishness – and here I am compelled to admit the hue of the archangel’s cloak in this version matches more closely that of the image of the wine on the box – making the more subdued tones of Reni’s Michael appear an echo of the impassive restraint shown in the figure’s lack of expression. Speaking of expressions, the mouth of Luca’s archangel betrays the slightest downward turn and barely parted lips. Despite the ambiguity of the emotion conveyed by this inkling of an expression, its very appearance robs Luca’s Michael of the inhuman impassiveness of Reni’s, in addition to the fact that the parted lips suggest a breath being drawn or exhaled. This latter implication of corporeality is reinforced twice over: once by the figure (of whom we see only the right leg) tumbling out of the frame of the picture on the bottom right, off of whom it appears Luca’s angel has vaulted, using his extended left leg, onto the figure on whom he now alights; and secondly by the soft, fleshy appearance of the figure’s exposed limbs. These observations imbue Luca’s Michael with weight and texture, placing him in the realm of the physical. The coup de grâce of my argument – and also that of the painting itself, quite literally – is the fully realized thrust of the lance, which penetrates the devil’s ribcage, draws blood, and provokes a chilling shriek of pain, signified vividly by the cretin’s gaping maw, which confronts the viewer directly. Whereas Reni’s work depicts detachedly a juxtaposition of Ideas, Luca’s blazons blatantly a battle of bodies.

As the first flush of the wine’s narcotic effects ebb, my own bodily pain – the headache, mild fever, and muscular soreness that has plagued me irregularly and unpredictably for the last fortnight, and on which I place the blame for my authorial inactivity – returns; as well as the oppressive weight, the vile encumbrance of life in and of itself, as Mann so eloquently put it, which is to me an excruciating anchor, holding me fast in this sinister sphere of petty pluralities. Seeking relief not given by the wine, I left the house earlier in the evening to stroll pleasantly deserted paths while the sun set – still chasing that ephemeral, luminescent, roseate hue – only to be reminded grimly of my constricting corporeal carapace by a half-dozen disturbingly robust buzzards circling overhead.

(In case you missed it, which would be entirely understandable, the wine wasn’t half bad. Also, here are a couple tunes that, in the spirit of this week’s subject, are appropriately transcendent. I had the Beethoven in mind from the outset; the jj came to my attention while I was writing and seemed to me too good a fit to exclude - go here if you want to download the song for free and legally.)

Beethoven, Piano Concerto #5 in E Flat, Op. 73, "Emperor;" Second Movement, Adagio un poco mosso

jj, Beautiful Life

[Notes: In composing this entry, I quoted and paraphrased from Stephen Scully’s translation of Plato’s Phaedrus, in addition to consulting some of the accompanying explanatory materials by the same (Focus Publishing, 2003). The quote from Doctor Faustus was taken from page 406 of John E. Woods’ translation (Vintage, 1997; published originally in German in 1947). The quote from Reni is transcribed on page 71 of Ann Sutherland Harris’ Seventeenth-Century Art & Architecture (Pearson, 2005). Also, I'm absolutely serious about the vultures. That happened.]




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